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No. Any of our cabinets can be ordered hinged on either side. However, once the cabinet is constructed, doors cannot be replaced.

There are different types of lighting systems being used in True cabinets, so there will be different types of troubleshooting techniques that need to be used. The one common aspect in all of the lighting circuits is that the bulbs being used must be the same as the bulbs that were originally installed in the cabinet.

To test ballast determine which lighting system you are working on and follow steps below:
Electromagnetic rapid start flourescent light circuit - There are three different voltage tests.
Incoming or ballast supply voltage - Test at black and white wires going to ballast. You should read approximately 118 volts.
Filament voltage - Tested between red to red wires or blue to blue wires. Depending on which ballast you have you should get a reading between 2 and 5 volts with the bulbs out. Please call technical service with the ballast number to get the correct voltage reading.
High Voltage - Test between either red wire and either blue wire. Again depending on which ballast you are checking the voltage can range between 205 and 310 volts with the bulbs out. Please call technical service with the ballast number for the correct voltage reading.

Instant start electronic flourescent light circuit - (Note: A high impedance meter is required for testing this ballast) There are two different voltages to test.
Incoming or ballast supply - Test at the black and white wires going to the ballast. You should read approximately 118 volts.
High Voltage - Test between the red wires and any one of the blue wires with the bulbs out. You should read approximately 600 volts (+ or - 10%)

Preheat flourescent light circuit - Test voltages between pins on each end of the lamp. You should get approximately 118 volts from one pin on one end to one pin on the other. You can also check for continuity between the other pins on either end to the starter base. (To do this test make sure there is no voltage to the circuit and remove the starter from the base.) If both are OK change the bulb first and then change the starter.
FOR ANY INFORMATION OR HELP DIAGNOSING BALLAST PROBLEMS PLEASE CALL:

TRUE MANUFACTURING TECHNICAL SERVICE
1-800-325-6152

Litdiag1

STEP 1: Unplug the cooler

STEP 2: Remove lamp cover by squeezing it in the center, twist and pull outward.

STEP 3: The lamp can then be removed by pushing it up and then out. This will release the lamp from the lower lamp holder. At this point the lamp can be totaly removed

STEP 4: Install the new lamp by placing the lamp terminals in the upper lamp holder first.

STEP 5: Push up on the bulb to recess the upper holder.

STEP 6: With upward pressure applied, line up the terminal on the lower end of the bulb with the lamp holder. Once aligned the lamp will snap into place.

STEP 7: Pull on bulb to make sure it is seated properly.

STEP 8: Replace lamp cover.

STEP 9: Plug in the cabinet.

STEP 10: If lamp does not illuminate another problem exists.

Slide Door Diagnosis and Adjustments.
To Improve Slide Door Closing
Check the cooler to see that it is level before searching for a solution. Place the level on the center of the lower channel and on the v-track in several places. The different areas involved with the closing of the door are as follows:

The plastic channel area: This includes the top, bottom, v-track, and bumpers.
Inspect the top and bottom channels for blockage. Inspect the v-track for dents or movements that may be causing the door to bind. The v-track my be adjusted slightly by bending the "v" with a number 8r vise grips. The v-track can be realigned or replaced. Shims under the door can be adjusted or added to, to improve the seal and speed of closing the door.

The door: This area includes v-roller bracket assembly, stainless insert holder, slot on top of door (were cord is fastened) the foam tape on the door, and the plastic buttons on the inside of the door.
A. Inspect the v-rollers, clean, realign and lubricate (the rollers should spin freely) or replace. Be sure the roller bracket screws do not touch the v-track.
B. Check to make sure door is square. If not loosen stainless insert holders, then square door, then retighten insert holders. Push on glass insert and break the seal between insert and 2-sided tape. Square door by placing shims between frame and glass insert, and then reinstall the insert holders.
C. Replace the door(with door disconnected) from cord. Slide the door in both directions. Look for binding in the channel area at the top and bottom. Check the stainless insert holder, the 1/4" - 3/8" foam tape, the nylon buttons, and the gasket. Adjust or replace the v-track to ease and binding.

The door weight area: This area includes the weight, the nylon cord, the assembly for holding the door open, and the copper guides for the nylon cord.
Remove the door and disconnect the cord. Pull the cord and release it gradually. Does the weight feel like it is binding? Remove the knot in the weight. Remove any excess cord at the knot. The knot should be inside the weight to minimize the friction. The weight should hang in a vertical position (no angle). Inspect the weight itself and the holes in it. Replace the weight if holes are too far off center and are effecting the travel in the door weight area.

The gasket area: This area includes the 3" plastic, 1 3/8 plastic, the gasket and the 11/16" gasket insert holder. Inspect the door to make sure it is seating against gasket.
TO ELIMINATE GAPS ON SLIDE DOOR COOLERS
Adjust leg levelers to elminate gap.
Place shims between the roller brackets and the door.
Remove gasket and shim needed locations.
Shim v-track.

Required Parts:

Kit No. for Parts 884605

Part No. 830519 (8) Phillips flat head screws
2 Door cords 42 in. long - Part No. 879863
4 pulleys - Part No. 832321

Not included in kit but required:

Door weights from cabinet cut to specifications

Required Tools:

Drill
Phillips head drill bit
1/4" hex head bit
Knife
Hack saw

STEP 1: Remove doors by lifting them up and pulling them out. Release the nylon cord from the door slot. Do not lay doors on the rollers. Set them carefully to the side.

STEP 2: With the 1/4" nut-driver, remove the screws that hold the counterweight cover and put it aside. (See Image 1)
Retrofitimage1 sml

STEP 3: Cut the knot that holds the counterweight. Remove counterweight and cord. Reference the counterweight chart. The counterweight needs to be trimmed (with hack saw) according to what model is being retorfitted with the pulley system.

STEP 4: With the 1/4" nut-driver, remove the 4 screws from the "C" clamps that secure the cord guide. Remove the cord guide. (You may have to remove the rubber door stop to get the guide out. If you do, reinstall the stop before going to the next step). (See Image 2)
Retrofitimage2 sml

STEP 5: Mount the first pulley in the upper channel. (Roller needs to be installed as shown in picture below) Hold new bearing in place and mark holes. Use a 3/32 drill bit to pre-drill holes. After pre-drilling holes use 2 screws supplied to hold bearing in place.
Retrofitimage3 sml



STEP 6: Mount the second pulley on the sidewall as shown in Image 3. The bearing should be 1/4 inch (6.35 mm) from the ceiling and 1/2 inch (12.7 mm) from the door track. As in previous step, pre-drill holes and mount bearing with 2 screw supplies.

STEP 7: First tie a knot at one end of the nylon cord. This knot will slide into the keyhole slot at the top corner of the door. (See image 4) hen thread the new nylon cord through the pulleys (See image 3)
Retrofitimage4 sml

STEP 8: Slide the knot into the keyhole and put the door into the track.

STEP 9: After inserting door into door track, slip the other end of the nylon cord through the new door weight and tie a knot in the new cord so when finished the weight will hang just above the lock keeper. (See images 5-6)
Retrofitimage5 sml

STEP 10: Reinstall counterweight cover

STEP 11: Follow the steps 1-10 for other doors.

Temperature Control Change-Out - GDM
TempControl1 TempControl2
Note: If it becomes necessary to remove the housing
be sure to tape off any interior panel at risk
of being scratched.
REQUIRED TOOLS: Permagum, Phillips Head Screwdriver, Hex Head Driver

STEP 1: Insert the control bulb into the copper sleeve. Before insertion, be sure there are no kinks in line.

STEP 2: IMPORTANT!

Seal the end of the sleeve with permagum to keep moisture out. (figure 3)

STEP 3: Connect the two wires to the new temperature control.

STEP 4: Fasten the control onto the mounting plate with two screws. (Item A)

STEP 5: Fasten the mounting plate wo the cooler with two screws. (Item B)

STEP 6: Replace black control knob and turn the control to the #5 setting.

STEP 7: Plug the Cooler in.

New GE Temperature Control Adjustments - Operation Instructions
REQUIRED TOOLS: Jewelers Screw Driver (Small Screw Driver)
GE Control Instructions:
This scale may be used as a guide for measuring degrees of rotation required for altitude correction. The arrows indicate direction of screw rotation.

Turn calibration screw counter clockwise to obtain colder operating temperatures.
Ge scale
GE Scale
Altitude Correction Table:
Calibration Screw Adjusts
Both Cut-In and Cut-Out

Altitude (Feet) Clockwise Turns
2000 7/60
3000 11/60
4000 15/60
5000 19/60
6000 23/60
7000 27/60
8000 30/60
9000 34/60
10,000 37/60

Slidelock01 Ratchet Lock & Plastic Door Stop - Slide Door - Installation Instructions
Included in Kit:

Ratchet lock assembly
(1) v-roller shim
(2) 8-32 rivnuts with tool
(2) 8-32 screws
#2 Drill Bit

Required Tools:

Marking utensil
Electric drill
Exacto knife or razor blade

STEP 1: Remove left side door by lifting up and out of the bottom track.

STEP 2: Position ratchet bar over left side of the right hand door. Center from top to bottom. Place shim in between the ratchet bar and left edge of door (image 1).

STEP 3: Using the ratchet bar as a template, mark the hole to be drilled and mark rubber gasket (on the front side of the door) top and bottom of the ratchet bar (image 2).

STEP 4: Drill hole where marked using #2 drill bit (image 3).

STEP 5: Place rivnut insert (provided in kit) in drilled hole (image 4).

STEP 6: Install rivnut using rivnut tool provided in kit (images 5 & 6).

STEP 7: Using an exacto knife or razor blade carefully cut rubber gasket to create notch for ratchet bar (image 7).

STEP 8: Reposition ratchet bar and secure using 8-32 screw into rivnut.

STEP 9: Replace left side door and check slide operation.

STEP 10: To lock cabinet, slide ratchet lock onto the ratchet bar through slot (lock should be oriented with slot towards top of lock; image 7).

Lock Installation Instruction - GDM-5 & GDM-5PT Swing Door Models
Required Tools:

Tape Measure
1/4" Drill
2" Saw Drill Hole Saw
3/4" Saw Drill Hole Saw
Straight Edge


Tin Snips
Phillips Screwdriver
File
Drill Bit for Screws on Lock Cup

FIRST...
Before beginning installation, remove front
shelf standard from interior wall on handle
side of cabinet.

STEP 1: Drill 3/4" hole on outer cooler wall of foam. (Do not penetrate inner wall) Center point of hole is 2 1/4" from front of cooler (including plastic trim) and 13 3/8" from bottom of cooler.

STEP 2: Drill 2" hole on inner cooler wall, centered over 3/4" hole. Drill just deep enought to accommodate white-metal backing plate.

CAUTION
Do not drill too deep.

STEP 3: Remove insulation so white-metal backing plate will fit in hole.

STEP 4: Check fit of locking cylinder after inserting through the outer cooler wall. Fill any air space around cylinder and plate with isulation.

STEP 5: Place white-metal backing plate over locking cylinder, into 2" hole. Attach lock nut to secure cylinder. Drill holdes and attach white metal backing plate to inner cooler wall. (This can be done with screws or pop rivets-your opinion. Parts not provided)

STEP 6: Attach lock arm to locking cylinder with 1/2" screw (provided). Tighten lock nut and screw. Locking mechanism on cooler wall should now be complete. Check operation.

STEP 7: Remove rubber gasket from plastic door channel.

STEP 8: Determine proper height for strike plate extension to be engaged by lock arm. Then determine location for two drill holes to attach strike plate to door frame. Drill tow 3/16" holes for strike plate through door frame and innermost plastic channel. (CAUTION: Make sure strike plat is positioned on the door so when the door is closed it will pass as close to the edge of teh opening as possible without hitting.)

STEP 9: Remove portion of the plastic channel wall where the strike plate will be located.

STEP 10: Securely attach strike plate to metal frame (through plastic channel) with 3/4" screws (provided).

STEP 11: Replace rubber gasket in plastic door channel.

STEP 12: Check for proper operation.

STEP 13: Install split standard (2 pieces) in place of original one piece standard. Use original mounting holes and screws.

NOTE:
Shorter piece should be at top.

Torsionspring01 Torsionspring02
NOTE: If the torsion spring is broken,there is no need for steps 1-4. REQUIRED TOOLS:
(2) - 1/8" drift Punch (forged) Needle-Nose Pliers Phillips-Head Screwdriver Wrench (3/8")
STEP 1: Turn the cooler off.
STEP 2: Locate the top hinge assembly.
STEP 3: If spring remains taught, relieve tension by placing a 1/8" drift punch into the stop pin hole, two holes to the left (for right side door) of the stop pin position.
STEP 4: With punch firmly anchored in position, apply back pressure to the left and remove the stop pin with needle-nosed pliers.
NOTE: Operation is reversed for left side door.
While firmly holding the drift punch with your left hand begin rotating the hinge shaft to the right relieving spring tension. Insert second drift punch into hole to the left and repeat process until all spring tension is relieved.
In some instances it is necessary to relieve spring pressure one hole position at a time until spring pressure is relieved.

Torsion tseries1 Required Tools:
(2) 1/8" drift Punch (forged)
Needle-Nose Pliers
Phillips-Head Screwdriver
Wrench (3/8")

STEP 1: Turn the cooler off.
STEP 2: Locate the top hinge assembly.
STEP 3: If spring remains taut, relieve tension by placing a 1/8" drift punch into the stop pin hole, two holes to the left (for right side door) of the stop pin position.
STEP 4: With punch firmly anchored in position, apply back pressure to the left and remove the stop pin with needled-nosed pliers.
NOTE: Operation is reversed for left side door.
While firmly holding the drift punch with your left hand begin rotating the hinge shaft to the right relieving spring tension. Insert second drift punch into hole to the left and repeat process until all spring tension is relieved.
In some instances it is necessary to relieve spring pressure one hole position at a time until spring pressure is relieved.

NEMA 14-20, 4 wire circuit, 2 hots, a neutral, and ground OR part is available. Part No. 801927 (Visit the Parts eStore ) For a local supplier, please call 1-800-325-6152, ask for our Service Dept.

See online Owner's Manual under Equipment Care and Cleaning section.